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Crystal Cruises offers an intriguing hybrid style of cruise experience. The line is decidedly upscale -- but its ships, unlike its luxury niche competitors, are big ones, carrying 940 passengers and more.

Crystal, owned by NYK Line of Japan and based in Los Angeles, was founded in 1990. Long a two-ship fleet -- 940-passenger Crystal Harmony was launched in 1990 and 940-passenger Crystal Symphony soon followed, its newest addition, the 1,080-passenger Crystal Serenity, is under construction and due in summer 2003.

Serenity's launch may well be the most long-awaited event in the company's history. Crystal Serenity, the line's largest ship, will introduce new Crystal signature features, such as a sushi bar, a second paddle tennis court, and a boardroom-with-wine-cellar. Fantasia, Crystal's children's facility, will be state-of-the-art; also onboard will be a teen center. The ship will have an indoor/outdoor pool as well as the standard centerpiece pool. Keynote facilities, like the Computer University@Sea and the spa will be expanded. And Crystal Serenity will offer a higher ratio of balcony cabins; 85 percent of all outside staterooms will have verandahs.

Crystal's biggest challenge is in, ironically, the main feature that differentiates it over smaller-ship luxury lines like Seabourn, Silversea, and Radisson Seven Seas Cruises: With bigger ships carrying more passengers, how does it successfully offer exemplary service, outstanding cuisine and freedom-of-choice -- on such a large scale?

Usually, it manages. Beyond the company's innovative programming and ship features, it has one of the industry's highest guest-to-staff ratios, guest space ratios, and, perhaps not coincidentally, one of the most loyal repeat passenger bases afloat. There's a huge positive to Crystal's biggest-ships-in-luxury-class status as well; there are simply far more options, in terms of entertainment, socializing, its Caesar's Palace at Sea casino, spa and fitness facilities, activities and enrichment options than its smaller luxury brethren.

Perhaps the biggest dilemma facing Crystal Cruises' is the fact that, of all the luxury lines, it's the only one to have two set dinner seatings in the main dining room -- a mainstay of mass market lines that doesn't necessarily appeal to the eat-when-we-want vagaries of the upper end cruiser. Certainly, Crystal has long offered alternatives to its main dining room; its Italian and Japanese restaurants onboard both Crystal Harmony and Crystal Symphony (and due for reprise on Crystal Serenity) are outstanding -- but are generally in huge demand so make reservations as early as possible. The latest effort -- and it's a wonderful alternative -- is to introduce ultra-casual pool-deck dining at "The Trident Grill" on designated nights during each voyage.

The company has been an innovator in the onboard experience -- Crystal was the first cruise line to embrace, and this was a decade ago, the concept of boutique restaurants and it enthusiastically incorporated cyber-cafes on its ships well before others (and offered how-to classes to encourage its passengers' computer skills). On a more recent note, Crystal is the first luxury line to make a significant commitment toward attracting families by upgrading children's onboard facilities and activities. And yet: it faithfully maintains cornerstone cruise traditions -- elegant afternoon tea, paddle tennis, casinos, activities like bingo and napkin folding, and assigned main restaurant dining.

Cabin-wise, accommodations on Crystal Harmony and Crystal Symphony -- particularly in the upper ranges -- are plush and comfortable. However, on Crystal Harmony in particular, lower level categories can be exceedingly cramped.

Longer, more exotic cruises attract an older, 55-plus crowd but Crystal, developing a reputation as the multi-generational family cruise line of choice for well-heeled travelers, appeals to a more diverse group of passengers for Alaska and, occasionally, Caribbean, itineraries.

Clothing onboard is dressy, particularly on formal nights (good time to break out those sequins). Even on other nights, passengers tend to wear cocktail attire (women) and suits (men). During the day, elegant casual permeates.